Monday, September 30, 2013

Five Cities, Five Distinct Personalities: Chioggia

We reluctantly bid farewell to Antonella and Padua and headed out for Chioggia.  By car, it's a simple 50 km, but to avoid major highways, we took the longer and scenic route and turned it into a 84 km jaunt.

The roads were flat.  The biggest challenge was avoiding the dead-ends caused by all the canals that inter-laced the Po delta.



You'll see from the map, Chioggia is 45 km south of Venice.  The main gate into the city tells the story of who ruled the town for centuries before Italian unification.




Like it's more famous neighbor to the north, Chioggia is a city of canals.




View towards the other city in the lagoon



The principal difference between the two cities is that Venice is a tourist haven and Chioggia is a blue collar fishing village.


,Dinner in a fishing village
The main street is loaded with restaurants and shops to appeal to the few tourists they do get.  But if you cross one of the bridges, you end up in quiet and charming working-class neighborhoods, where the food is just as good and the Aperol Spritzes (called spritz aperol) are half the price, although the snacks are not as fancy, but great with aperol on a warm night.
Sit down, kick back and enjoy twilight, the real thing









Sunday, September 29, 2013

Five Cities, Five Distinct Personalities: Padua


If Verona is the city of love, then Padua is the charming university town.  And, students have not changed their nature since we were among them.
























Piazza  di Erbe




Our hostess in Padua was Antonella...
Outside the apt with Antonella.
...a vivacious and amichevole (friendly, with any positive attribute that goes along with it.)  She is in her mid-70s and nearly skips up the three flights of stairs to the apt.  The apartment was just lovely.  It is where her grandmother lived and she grew up there, as well.  Antonella and her husband now live across the street.  The apt is called Al Canton dei Signori   Should you wish to visit the city, I would highly recommend staying there.  As with any place we choose to stay, it is in the centro storico (historic center) of Padua, just off the Piazza Erbe.  Also, we do not stay at any inn, B&B, albergo, agriturismo or other spot not owned by Italians.  It's a conscious choice to support the citizens of the country we are visiting, and to actually be in Italy with Italians.



And here is the street of the apt, with a little street art.


We spent two days prowling each and every street in Padua.  There are surprises everywhere.

A random building on a random street


A Monestary garden
And, like in other cities, pigeons were not welcomed.
To prevent pigeons from landing in public places, under porticos, etc.

And there are lots rules from people, too, always posted.  This posting is near ruins of the Roman Theater in Padua.












There are multiple piazze (plural of piazza) in the centro of any city, all very close to one another.  Always, a Piazza della Republica, one for the cathedral, and often one for a clock tower.  Padua did not disappoint!



The clock tower in the Piazza Erbe contains the oldest functioning clock in the world.  While it was not the first clock built in Eurpoe, it was the first to keep accurate time.

The clock face is a bit unusual.  It has 24 hours, and the clock has only one hand...

Note the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice, a winged lion, just below the clock face.




In the Piazza della Populo is Palazzo della Ragione (Palace of Reason, i.e., the courthouse).



It was built in 1172 and houses what is still the largest roof unsupported by columns (267 feet long) in Europe.  How big was this room?  Take a look...


The horse---made of wood---was sculpted in the 1450's to promote a trade fair.  The sponsors liked the sculpture so much they decided to keep it.  The only place large enough to store it was the "Salone," the great hall on the second floor of the Palazzo.

The roof of the building was contructed like the hull of a ship and was then lined with a ceiling that was painted with thousands of stars on a blue background.  All that wood, guess what?  There was a terrible fire and the roof burned.  When reconstructed, it remained a wooden hull only.  Still, it's size is just amazing.

The walls are covered with frescos of seasons, zodiac signs, people, you name it.  It is a huge room, so there was plenty of space for a wide variety of frescos.

There was also some fun street art.  The students are a bit political here, although to tell the truth everyone is up-to-date on current events.  Sitting at an outside bar, one overhears at least one conversation about politics in Italy, one about international politics, one about love, and more than one in a Germatic language which neither of us understands.  We are up north after all.

We had no idea there was a ghetto...

or that there would be any signage.

Like Verona, the former ghetto has become an upscale shopping district.









The  Italian Rites (Ashkenazi) synagogue was destroyed by the nazis during WWII, but was rebuilt by the city following the war.

Front door of the rebuilt synagogue
Even the portal was rebuilt
It is no longer used as a place of worship, but around the corner we heard men in morning prayer.  
The Spanish (Sephardic) synagogue is still operating. We, make that Carol, was not allowed to go inside...not only because she's a woman, but that day she was sleeveless.  There was a man at the door to keep people out and two policemen.




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Friday, September 27, 2013

The Grand Mis-Adventure

This was supposed to be a year of cycling, right?  Well, we'd been in Italy more than a week and hadn't gotten on our bikes yet.  But that time was drawing near.

We had taken the train from Firenze to Verona.  The stop at the station in Verona was short, and we had to hustle bikes and luggage off the train.  We were in a rush, but got everything off...or so we thought.  As we were leaving the train station, Roger realized he had left his helmet behind, and the train had left the station.  Fortunately, we knew of a bike shop a few kilometers outside the city, and  we needed a shake-down ride anyway.  And why did we know of a full service (very unusual to find it all under one roof in Italy) shop?  Five years ago we had gone to Verona to do some biking and Carol's suitcase, which had all her biking gear, did not arrive with us.  British Airways had no idea where it was and after four days gave us permission to purchase new gear.  The suitcase arrived on day 8 with Hawaii inspection stickers all over it.  It had had a great time in the island state and we had found a good cycling/running shop.  Anyway....

We dressed for the ride, and as Roger went to put on his bike shoes, he discovered he had pulled two right shoes from his luggage in Chiusi, and left both left shoes in the bags which remained with our Pienza host.  So, wearing no helmet and street shoes, Roger set off with Carol to the bike shop in San Martino, just outside Verona.  Since it was the end of the season, nobody had any inventory left.  Nonetheless, we found a serviceable helmet and pair of shoes.

The next morning we set out for Padova (Padua).  It was a simple 85 kilometer ride we had done before.  However, thanks to an amazing number of roads with no signs noting where they were going, multiple signs for the same small towns and directions from locals who only drive from place to place and like to take the scenic route to get there (read that:  they visit all their friends in multiple towns on their way from point A to point B), we managed to turn an easy 85 km into 115 km of starts, stops, and generally being "solo un po' persi" (only a little lost.)


At least the Po Valley is flat.  In 115 KM, we climbed a grand total of 74 meters.  The biggest hill was an overpass over the A4 Autostrada.  The Italians call this, "piano, piano (flat, flat)."  Here's what it looked like in one direction:

                  ..and in the other....

A few miles from Padua, we were pedaling  down this pleasant country road.  Light traffic.  Well-marked.  Suddenly, with no warning, the road morphed into a major freeway...the ever-popular Autostrada.  We were terrified but kept on pedaling...because we didn't know what else to do.  Just when it seemed things couldn't get any worse, they did.  That freeway joined another, and we were trapped in the middle of four on-ramps with no idea where to go.  Just then, a police siren blared...seemingly from within Carol's back pocket.  An Italian cop got out of his patrol car, ran up to us and said, in English, "You can't ride your bicycles here."  We explained how we got there.  He told us to ride 2 km to the next exit, and get off.  He'd follow in his patrol car, blocking the speeding traffic from killing us.  So with his lights flashing, he crawled behind us to the next Autostrada exit, hitting the siren and going to our right to block an on ramp and then again as he blocked the off-ramp.  At the bottom of the ramp, he motioned for us to turn left and jumped out of his patrol car to give us directions to the historic center of the city.  Throughout all of this, he was really nice, a smiling and very friendly young man.  Carol wanted to hug him and give two kisses, one on each cheek - this is a two kiss part of Italy, there are three kiss regions, as well - but all he would allow was repeated "mille graze" (a thousand thanks.)  We know this was not the first time he had seen "pazzi turisti" (crazy tourists) somehow end up on the Autostrada.






Thursday, September 26, 2013

Five Cities, Five Distinct Personalities: Verona

Verona is a lovely city...modern and prosperous...though with its most famous landmarks dating back 2,000 years to Roman times.  Verona was never a power player in Renaissance Italy.  It sided with the Holy Roman Empire in its centuries-long rivalry with the the Papacy.  Thus the heavy Hapsburg (Austrian) influence.  

Verona’s tourism is dominated by Romeo and Juliet.  Guiletta’s balcony is a tourist trap to rival the leaning tower of Pisa or Niagara Falls.  Still, the city is lovely and romantic.  An evening stroll is mandatory.



Guilette's Balcony
Across the small piazza from the Capuletti house is the crown jewel of schlock...an erotica shop called Club di Guiletta.













We developed a routine to take place during the passagiata, or afternoon walk.  Every day we stopped at the same bar for a spritz aperol.  It is on a fantastic corner for people watching and they give you a snack to nibble on with your drinks.  Afterwards, we didn't need dinner, but who could resist?  If you go to Verona, the typical cooking of the area includes the use of vino amorena, a local wine.  We tried two dishes made with it.  The first was a risotto that was soaked int he wine prior to cooking.  The finished product was incredibly good and a dark purple color.  The second was pasta with a rabbit sauce made with the specialty wine.  Perhaps there is a common thread here, make that wonderful dishes with a common wine.  We would both go back to Verona simply to eat!

We can't explain how enchanting this city really is, so we’ll just show you.  Even the photos don't do justice to the endearing quality of Verona.



The Roman Arena is 2000 years old, and is home...
...to both the Verona Opera and rock concerts.


The Roman Theater...
...is the same age...


...and still stages plays.


Older still is the Porta Leone and Roman baths...in the heart of modern downtown.


The Castel Vecchio dominated the medieval city.





The old ghetto is now an upscale shopping district.  The synagogue still holds weekly services.



Verona...the pretty little city on the Adige...

...by day...


...or by night.
.





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