Thursday, September 9, 2021

Sbandieratori. (Flag Wavers)


 

In several of our blog posts, we've referred to Sbandieratori, the flag wavers who put on spectacular performances at all sorts of community events.

The art of Sbandieri (flag throwing) is hardly unique to Pienza.  In fact, the picture at the left was taken in Asti at their annual Palio in 2016.

The evolution of Sbandieratori performances is a fascinating page out of history.

It starts during the Middle Ages, where local nobles were obliged to fight for their overlords, and bring a handful of peasant foot soldiers along with them.

The foot soldiers were a rag-tag bunch, fighting with what clothes and weapons they could bring from home.


 Since there were no uniforms and virtually no military training, battles were often a confusing melee, where it was difficult to tell one's fellow-soldiers from the enemy.  A noble, or more likely one of his pages, would carry a banner, and the peseants were told to "rally round the flag" (Yes, this is where the childrens' game came from) when it came time to attack or retreat.  That worked, so long as the enemy didn't "capture the flag" (This one too) and wave it to lure a noble's foot-soldiers into slaughter.

So the armies quickly developed flag-waving "codes."    Three waves back and forth or pinwheeling the flag was legit.  Anything else was a "false flag," an attempt to entice the peasants into a bloodbath.

(A hint here: once the video starts, click on the box in the lower right corner of the video, you'll get a full screen view.)


Over time, the flag "codes" became more complex.
 

  Army units competed with one another to see who could put on the more elaborate display.


Eventually, armies became more professional, issuing uniforms and providing better training.  The sbandieratori became obsolete for the military, but not for the people.  Virtuoso performances developed.

 In cities bigger than Pienza, the competition among Sbandieratori can be intense...as was the case in Asti...

 

 

 The Sbandieratori start young.

 

 As as you'll see from this final video clip, it takes years of training to get it right...











Monday, September 6, 2021

Abbiamo Vinto! (We Won!)


 

 

Siena's Palio is world famous.  A bareback horesrace around the Campo, the city's main piazza.

 Ever since Renaissance times, when the city temporarily reduced taxes for the winning neighborhood, it's been a no-holds-barred, bare-knuckled showdown that attracts thousands.



 

Pienza's version of the palio is a bit more sedate.  Called the "Gioco Di Cacio," the six contrada (neighborhoods) compete in a sort of horseshoes match...rolling a wheel of pecorino cheese across a bumpy piazza to see who can get closest to the pin.

 

This year's was the 70th edition of the "Rolling of the Cheese," and five neighborhoods were psyched to unseat San Piero, the reigning champion.



 
For days leading up to the competition, the neighborhoods were decked out in their Contrada flags.
 
The sbandieratori (flag throwers) led off to warm up the crowd...

 
 
Then came the main event.  One-by-one each team of six had a go...

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
There's an old legend that says placing a teammate's hat on the target pin attracts the cheese.
 
Going into the final round, our contrada, Le Mura (the blue triangle), had a slim lead. 
 
 
 The tension was palpable as the final participant from Le Mura knelt on the carpet.



 

 

 

Those final points sealed the victory, and our team erupted in a burst of flag-waving cheers.

The winners' prize...a selection of pecorino cheese, of course.